Installing ceramic tile backsplash on a countertop or similar surface
is a good project for a do-it-yourselfer. A sink top backsplash
in the kitchen or bathroom, a new top for a bar or vanity, an elegant buffet
in the dining room, or open
storage shelves in the kitchen are all reasonably easy projects that can bring
major changes to any room.
TOOLS NEEDED:
Carpenters Square:
Use as a straight edge and
squaring tool
Level:
Use to establish an
even working plane
Tape Measure:
Use for accurate
measurements
Fiber Glass Tape:
Use to tape joints
Backerboard
Screws: Use to
secure subfloor
Chalk Line:
Use as a guide
when laying tile
2 Buckets:
For grout & adhesive
Tile Spacers:
Use for precise
tile alignment
Scrub Pad:
Grout cleaning tool
Grout Float:
Use to apply grout
Rubber
Gloves
Firm, Round
Edge Sponge:
Will not leave excess
liquid, is super absorbent.
Mixer Bar:Use to mix mortar
Rub Stone:Use to smooth edges
Notched Trowel:Use to spread
adhesive
Notched Margin
Trowel: Use to
spread adhesive
Margin Float:
Use to apply
grout
8" Margin Trowel:
Use to mix & apply
mortar & grout
*Tile
Nippers:
Needed to bite
harder grade tiles
*Hand Held
Micro Cutter:
Use to cut tile
*Tile Cutter:
Used for straight or angle cuts
THE TILE SHOP OFFERS FREE USE OF
CERAMIC CUTTING TOOLS
(with deposit)
PREPARE SURFACE FOR BACKSPLASH INSTALLATION:
You can apply new tiles right over existing ceramic tile or
laminated plastic counters (Formica) provided the edge of the
counter is square rather than rounded. If you’ve installed new
cabinets or removed the old countertop, you will be installing a
new backing for the counter. By far the best sub-surface for a
ceramic tile countertop is 3/4" exterior grade plywood with 1/2"
BACKER BOARD (cement board) or DENSHIELD mounted on top of
the plywood. Attach the BACKER BOARD to the 3/4" plywood by first
troweling-out PRO-FLEX Mortar, or PRO-LASTIC Mortar or PROFLEX
PLATINUM Mortar using a 1/4" U-notch trowel over the
plywood. Place the BACKER BOARD on the mortar and tamp down;
now screw the BACKER BOARD to the plywood every 4" using
1" backerboard screws. This process laminates and secures the
BACKER BOARD to create a solid and rigid surface for tile.
If the width of the countertop is 24" or less, a cross brace every
36" is adequate. Where plywood pieces are butted together at
the ends, leave about 1/8" space to permit expansion. Similarly,
there should be about 1/8" gap between the plywood and the back
wall. A wood batten placed underneath will temporarily prevent
the adhesive from dripping into the cabinets.
CHOOSING THE EDGE TRIM:
Before you start, decide how you will trim the countertop edge.
The usual methods are illustrated (below) ; your choice will depend
on the availability of trim pieces in the tile pattern you select as
well as on personal preference. The most commonly used
application is two bullnose tiles where one overlaps the other
(Example #2). Oak edging is also popular, however, serious
thought should be given in advance due to the surplus
moisture/water which countertops are sometimes subjected to.
SELECTING A SINK:
The type of sink influences your project. There are two basic types: “selfrimming”,
which means it sits on top of the tile, and “tile-in” which is
designed to be mounted flush with the tile. Self-rimming sinks are much
easier for tiling projects because you tile up to the opening cut in the
counter and then just drop the sink in place on a line of caulk. Tile-in
sinks require careful cutting around the sink’s perimeter.
PLANNING THE LAYOUT:
When laying out any project the best advice is to think things through. Any problems or questions should be
resolved before picking up the adhesive. By “dry laying” the tile (without adhesive), you can see where the tile
will hit any given area: the back wall, the end of the counter, the sink area, etc. This will essentially give you an
opportunity see where every tile will go. By “dry laying” you will save time and the process of setting the tile
will go much smoother.
There are basically three types of countertops:
- The Straight Counter:
For the straight counter you can either center the tile in the space or start full off of both ends and
put the cut, or “dutchman” as it’s called, in the middle.
- The “L” Shape Counter:
For the “L” shape counter, we want full tiles along each counter edge. You will need to start at the
front edge of the inside corner. This will ensure that you have full tiles along both counter edges.
- The “U” Shaped Counter:
For the “U” shaped counter, we again want full tiles along each counter edge. It is important to start
with full tiles at the front edge of each inside corner to ensure that you have full tiles along all three
counter edges.
SETTING THE TILE:
Prior to tiling, tape all of your BACKER BOARD seams using FIBERGLASS
TAPE and PRO-FLEX Mortar/PRO-LASTICMortar or PRO-FLEX PLATINUM Mortar. If you have a “tile-in” sink, this should be installed now; if your have
the standard “self-rimming” type sink, this will be installed after the tile is set and grouted.
When setting a countertop, the trim for the edge is the first tile to go on. Mix the PRO-FLEX
/PRO-LASTICMortar / PRO-FLEX PLATINUM Mortar with clean, cool water to a toothpaste consistency. Spread adhesive,
using the proper notched trowel, only where the trim will be placed. Set the bullnose/trim pieces before you
spread the adhesive for the field tiles keeping in mind that the field tiles are generally in line with the edge
trim. If you use a SINK RAIL, each piece will need extra adhesive spread on the back, (this is called “back
buttering”) to account for the irregularity of each piece. If you use surface bullnose for the trim, set the
horizontal trim first overlapping the bullnose to receive the vertical piece; leave a grout joint between these
tiles and run a piece of tape to hold the vertical tile in place.
After all the bullnose pieces are positioned, spread the adhesive over a section of counter.
Now lay the field tiles, working from the front to the back and cutting back pieces to fit as necessary. The tiles
should run to the wall. Be sure to use tile spacers if the tiles are not sheet mounted. Check the grout joint
alignment frequently. Use a wooden block or piece of padded plywood large enough to cover several
squares at once and tap with a mallet or rubber hammer to bed and level the tile faces as you lay them in the
mortar adhesive.
Once the counter is completely set and dry, you are ready to do the backsplash. This is an ideal area to set some
decorated accent tiles to highlight the area. Unless you are tiling up to an overhead cabinet or window sill, use
bullnose/trim pieces for the top row. In the event the wall behind the counter contains electrical outlets or
switches, you can cut the tile to fit around these openings.
APPLYING GROUT:
Clean any adhesive that might have stuck to the tile face with a damp sponge. After the mortar adhesive has dried
a minimum of 24 hours, grout the tile. Using a sanded grout mixed with FLEXIBLE
GROUT ADMIXTURE or LATEX
GROUT
REINFORCER mix together to a “toothpaste” consistency. Pack the grout into the tile joints using a grout float.
Spreading the grout is relatively simple; it’s the proper cleanup that requires careful work. The object is to get the
tiles clean without disturbing the grout. Keep a grout sponge, a supply of clean water and a soft cloth/cotton rag
available for the cleanup process. When using colored grout, remember to mask any vulnerable adjacent surfaces.
The layer of grout still on the tile must be cleaned off before it dries. Once the grout has had a few
minutes to firm up in the joints, wipe with a damp sponge in a circular motion to get the excess
grout off the face of the tile (Be careful not to dig or wipe the grout out of the joints). Once the first
wipe down is complete, get a bucket of clean water and wipe the tile down a second time. This time
we are only trying to get the haze off. Wipe the tile with a damp grout sponge at an angle to the
grout lines and rinse the grout sponge often. After the second wipe down, let the tile dry until a
haze appears (about 20-30 minutes).
When the grout haze appears and the grout is fairly firm, buff the haze off with a soft, clean cloth,
being careful not to disturb the joints. GROUT & HAZE REMOVER is designed to assist in cleaning any
film that may have been missed or is particularly difficult to remove from from the face of the tile
once the grout has cured. For tough areas, where grout film has been left on the face of the tile,
use GROUT HAZE AND LATEX FILM REMOVER with a Scrubbing Pad.
CAULKING AND SEALING GROUT:
Once you have installed the tile and have had a chance to stand back and admire your work, you
should take the proper steps to keep the tile and grout looking beautiful for years to come.
Two days after grouting, caulk the area where the backsplash and countertop intersects. Caulk the
corners of the backsplash and once again around the sink. These areas are stress areas and as you
open and close the cabinet doors and drawers, movement will happen. Caulking these areas after
the grout has dried will prevent grout cracking and grout movement.
After the caulk has dried, use PENETRATING SEALER or STONE SEAL to seal all the grout lines on the
countertop and backsplash. This sealer is designed for countertops and should be reapplied every
two to three years. Grout is the only maintenance of a ceramic tile countertop. Therefore, using a
good caulk and a good grout sealer will keep your countertop looking clean and new for years to
come. Apply the PENETRATING SEALER with a small foam brush or sponge directly to the grout joints.
Let the sealer soak into the grout joint for a few minutes, then buff any remaining sealer off the tile
and grout immediately. Follow the instructions on all the labels of the products you elect to use to
clarify proper usage and procedures. For daily maintenance use GROUT
AND TILE NEUTRAL CLEANER.
