Do-It-YourselfInstalling Tile Wall Tile Floor Tile Backsplash Shower Pan Cement Backerboard

How To Install Ceramic Wall Tile


Our tile experts are trained to provide you with installation tips and insights into the latest design trends, and then to see that you get the proper products for a quick, easy, do-it-yourself installation.

TOOLS NEEDED:
Carpenters Square: Use as a straight edge and squaring tool
Level: Use to establish an even working plane
Tape Measure: Use for accurate measurements
Fiber Glass Tape: Use to tape joints
Backerboard Screws: Use to secure subfloor
Chalk Line: Use as a guide when laying tile
2 Buckets: For grout & adhesive
Tile Spacers: Use for precise tile alignment
Scrub Pad: Grout cleaning tool
Grout Float: Use to apply grout
Rubber Gloves
Firm, Round Edge Sponge: Will not leave excess liquid, is super absorbent.
Mixer Bar:Use to mix mortar
Rub Stone:Use to smooth edges
Notched Trowel:Use to spread adhesive
Notched Margin Trowel: Use to spread adhesive
Margin Float: Use to apply grout
8" Margin Trowel: Use to mix & apply mortar & grout
*Tile Nippers: Needed to bite harder grade tiles
*Hand Held Micro Cutter: Use to cut tile
*Tile Cutter: Used for straight or angle cuts

THE TILE SHOP OFFERS FREE USE OF CERAMIC CUTTING TOOLS (with deposit)

SUBFLOOR PREPARATION:
Ceramic wall tile can be installed over drywall, plaster, cement block, CEMENT BOARD / DENSHIELD and existing ceramic tile. The surface should be flat, smooth, dry and any loose paint or cracked surface should be scraped off and patched with a waterproof patching compound. In the event you are using CEMENT BOARD / DENSHIELD, fill all seams and corners of CEMENT BOARD / DENSHIELD with wall adhesive or 100% Silicone Caulk, and tape with fiberglass mesh tape. Use Backerboard screws when fastening CEMENT BOARD / DENSHIELD to studs.

Pay particular attention to the point where tile will meet the top of a tub or shower base. Chip away any material here and leave 1/4-inch space. After tiling, caulk in this space.

LAYING OUT THE WALL:
Using a level, draw a line at the desired height. Once the level line is determined for one wall, it is determined for the entire room. If there are irregularities caused by fixtures such as tubs or kitchen cabinets, check to see if your level line works on all walls without leaving a “sliver” cut at the bottom.

To avoid unsightly small cuts of tile at the ends of the wall, you must plan a starting point to avoid this. Plan your starting point, then using a level draw a vertical line at this point. For floors that are not level, set one tile at the lowest point in floor and mark on the wall at the top of this tile. Using a level, draw a line from this point around the room and lightly nail a 1"x2" wood strip (this strip is used to stack your first row of tile so no slippage will occur). Install second row of tile on this strip working out to the corners. When tile is set, remove the wood strip and install first row of tile, cutting and nipping as required.

APPLYING ADHESIVE / MORTAR:
Apply CERAMIC WALL ADHESIVE (PRO-MASTIC, PRO-FLEX PLATINUM or PRO-LASTIC) with the proper notch trowel. In the gap between the tub and the wall, pipes and plumbing, fill with PRO-MASTIC or caulking. For extremely wet areas (i.e. showers and whirlpool decks, tub surrounds getting extensive use) PRO-FLEX PLATINUM or PRO-LASTIC THINSET MORTAR are the recommended adhesives for this application.

To apply the proper amount of the adhesive, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle. Apply only enough adhesive which can be tiled within 10 minutes. If the adhesive begins to dry before tile is set, scrape off and reapply a fresh batch.

SETTING THE TILE:
Start setting the tile at the junction of the center line and bottom level line and work out and up toward the corners from the floor or wood strip.

Position the tiles by using a slight twisting motion, DO NOT slide tiles into place. Check often for uniform lines, as small adjustments may be necessary. It is advisable to use TILE SPACERS to insure accurate spacing between the tile. Set tile that must be cut, last.

In the event adhesive "oozes" between the tile, remove the adhesive with a damp sponge as you continue with your installation.

Use a micro cutter, nipper or wet saw to make curved cuts or notches. Mark area to be removed with a pencil. Cautiously nip away the waste, a little at a time. If cuts are to be covered by fixture plates, perfection is not required. Cuts out of the corner of a tile may be done with a MASONRY DRILLor HOLE SAW.

ALLOW TILE TO DRY UNDISTURBED FOR 24 HOURS.

APPLYING THE GROUT:
Prior to grouting, remove all TILE SPACERS. Add the grout powder to LATEX GROUT REINFORCER and mix to a "toothpaste" consistency. Mix no more than can be used in 20 minutes. Work the grout into the joints with a GROUT FLOAT. Grout a small area at a time (3 feet by 3 feet). Wipe excess grout from the face of tile with a damp sponge. After the grout joints have set up (about 30 minutes) buff grout haze off the tile with a dry soft cloth. Any grout film remaining on the tile can be removed with GROUT HAZE AND LATEX FILM REMOVER and a SCRUB PAD.

SETTING FIXTURES:
Using 100% SILICONE CAULK (white or clear), install ceramic fixtures in the locations preferred. Use DUCT TAPE to hold the fixtures into place while they are drying. The Tile Shop has a variety of ceramic fixtures (shampoo shelves, soap dishes, towel bars, tissue paper holders) to coordinate with your tile.

CAULKING:
Caulk around all ceramic fixtures, bathtub edges, corners of the wall, and around all plumbing fixtures to prohibit water from seeping into these areas. Caulk is available to match all of our grout colors.

SEALING THE GROUT:
After grout has dried 48 to 72 hours, seal all grout joints with PENETRATING SEALER to prevent grout porosity and to retain the grout color. PENETRATING SEALER is a below-surface sealer which allows moisture vapor transmission from below and is designed for interior and exterior application.

For weekly cleaning of your tile and grout use GROUT & TILE NEUTRAL CLEANER. This is a neutral cleaner and will not strip the sealer from the grout joint and because it is not a soap, it is equally effective in hard or soft, hot or cold water. In the event you experience a stain or difficult soil problem, use HEAVY DUTY GROUT & TILE CLEANER mixed with water and work it into the area with a GROUT BRUSH.